Outdoors: Ken's Wild Adventures - "Atacama Crossing", Racing the Planet

Wednesday, August 16, 2006 - 09:45 PM

I am very disappointed about the outcome of my race.

It was a very difficult course and the ultimate drop out rate was very high. Something like 30%. I was well prepared for this race and was doing well. I was placing in the top 25% despite the long days and periods of walking. Everyone was in the same boat except for a small core of elite runners. I had no problem with the high altitude due to my altitude training machine, whereas a number of competitors were having some trouble breathing and the dropouts started to accumulate from the first day. Physically, I didn't have a single blister and except for a few minor scratches and a turned ankle that I got on the course, was in good shape. Out of our orignal 8 tent mates....I was the last one to go, leaving only 3 people to finish the race.

The first day was only 36km, but it took me over 7 hours to finish. I was the third one back in the tent that day. A married couple from Singapore didn't get back to camp until 11:30pm.!!! We started at a small mountain village at an altitude of 14,000'. It was very picturesque and the local "mayor" and his wife (from the local Indian tribe) appeared in traditional costume and gave a welcoming (translated) address. The church bell announced the start of the race and off we went. We raced out of the village and then started an endless series of river crossings. The "map" we were given (which was totally useless - no compass bearings or GPS co-ordinates and vague descriptions of the terrain) said 5 river crossings........I stopped counting at 40, but a British runner counted over 120 in total! We kept crossing this ice cold mountain stream time and time again (knee to thigh deep and very fast moving so tricky to keep your balance). Apparantly the course was supposed to mostly run parallel the river, but was accidently marked in a straight line....whereas the river does not run straight! A very tough and wet start to the race in the "driest place on earth".

The second day we decended into a slot canyon.......and more water! We waded in the canyon for 23-30 yards at a time before we could get out onto dry land. My feet were totally frozen and numb. I was stumbling around because I couldn't feel my feet. I was behind a local Chilean runner who looked drunk because he was so unsteady. Just as the feeling started to return.......back into the water again!! Miserable. After a couple of hours of this torture, we exited onto a salt flat. That was equally nasty as it was like running over broken up concrete blocks. One Brit said it was like going over coral. Occasionally, you broke through the crust into a muddy, sticky goo that was below. At least one runner lost her shoe in this goop. I sprained my ankle on this stuff, but kept going. Glory be to Tylenol 3.

By day 3, I couldn't keep my dehydrated food down and was also having trouble drinking. This day had lots of climbing, mostly over "shale", sort of loose rock, but relatively easy to run on. I got lost on this stage....twice. The course was marked with little pink flags (similar to the ones you see that mark gas or water lines when someone might dig a hole). They were very hard to see.....especially in an undulating reddish brown landscape. Had to double back a couple of times. I was also in the unusual position of "leading" rather than "following" a group of runners, so I accidently dragged a few people along with me. At one water crossing I was set upon by a pack of feral dogs who delighted in trying to nip chunks out of my calves. I literally jumped into the river this time, grateful that the mangy mutts didn't follow.

The scenery was spectacular on this day as we gradually climbed up onto a ridge where we could look down on a fertile river valley a couple of thousand feet below and a row of mountains and volcanoes in the distance. We then decended this enormous sand dune. It was very steep and dropped several hundred metres. The temptation was to let go and run down as fast as you could screaming "wheeeeeeee", but that could have been disasterous as you were almost out of control as it was. I ended up the day running in strongly despite having to negotaite another long sand dune descent into yet another river valley.....and yes, across the river again....... followed by a long climb up a big dune to the other side and then across a rocky plain to the camp. It was morale draining to clearly see the camp tantalisingly close on the other side, knowing that the descent and climb would lead you AWAY from the camp and would take at least another 30-45 minutes to complete.

My last day started not so well. I was concerned about my alarming urine output (don't ask) from the day before and that morning. The doctors were equally concerned that I might be risking renal failure and suggested I drink "at least 3 litres of water before the race and 1-2 an hour thereafter" to flush things out. That was not possible with the water ration, so just tried to make the best of it. I had not been able to choke down my food the night before and I was not feeling well. I started retching before I actually crossed the start line! So definately not good. We crossed a small plateau and then started to go down into another canyon. It was very steep and I was hanging on to the rocks for dear life. Again.....into some water and then through almost jungle like trees and spectacularly tall grasses. I got lost again as runners 2 feet ahead of me literally disappeared into the grass and I lost sight of the flags! I managed to get about halfway through the course. l was shivering in the midday sun now and really doubting if I could go on. I got to the checkpoint and knowing that I faced another 15km of salt flats and canyons I decided to withdraw. The course is so inaccessable, that no vehicles can cross the salt flats or get into the canyons, my chances of rescue would be slim. Once back at the camp, I spent the next couple of hours in the medical tent being rehydrated and trying to get warm. A weird sensation in 30C heat! So it was the right decision, but still very hard to do.

So that was my race. Chile was wonderful and the region where the race was staged is filled with unusual and spectacular scenery. The little town of San Pedro de Atacama, that served as the 'home base' for the race at first glance seemed very "third world". All one story, dusty adobe houses, very narrow streets, just dirt roads and not a ounce of asphalt to be seen, feral dogs everywhere. However, the restaurants served up wonderful food that would not be out of place in Toronto (or Unionville!), and relatively cheap. A typical 3 course fixed menu dinner averaged about $12. Also lots of high end shops and tourist business' (horseback or SUV expeditions, mountain climbing, star gazing in the desert, archaelogical tours, etc.). Looks were very much deceiving.

I would go back............but maybe not to run!!